Glenmorangie and Nessie
Our departure from Livingston was smooth. We got up at around 8am, and after the customary showering ritual, we went to the Mall to handle some errands - specifically we needed some more fruit and good stuff for the road ahead of us, and I wanted to top up the SIM card I borrowed from Todd, so that we could Inter the Nets en route.
So we went to this mall (the same one we were at yesterday night in search of a letterbox). It was more lively now, and stores were starting to open up. We got a sandwich at Baguette Express, and we went to the Iceland store for some groceries, and finally to the phone shop for a pay-as-you-go voucher. This was easier said than done, largely because the computer system was busted and the guy couldn’t log on. So instead of topping up, he just got me a new SIM card and a 2GB data plan for 30d. We figured 2G would be more than enough, but who knows, we may actually run out tomorrow :)
Then we set off to Tain where sixteen wise men make whiskey. We got there at about 1:45pm after a leisurely 220 mile drive through the Scottish highlands. We bought tickets for the distillery tour starting at 2pm, which was enjoyable. Rachele (our tourguide0 told us a bit of the history, the current ownership, production volume (6Mio liters per year), and that they were a sisterdistillery of Ardbeg (also very yummy!). They have 12 beautiful copper stills, 6 for the first distill round and 6 for the second distill round. Rachele dispelled a long standing urban legend, in that the shape and dents in the stills are allegedly very important for the taste, but she wasn’t having any of that jazz, smart girl, and said it was just the master distiller’s personal taste talking. Speaking of taste, we had a dram (or in my case: two \o/) in the tasting room and then went to browse in the shop. I made my choice rather much quicker than Paul did, so we had a salesperson explain the differences to us. Striking was, that she asked “Do you want something to enjoy or are you looking for an investment?” – it turns out that if you buy certain bottles now (which will only be sold from one batch that they made 10-12 years ago), it can very well be that this becomes a collectors’ item in 30 years. But alas, a bottle of Glenmorangie will not last 30 years in my cabinet as I’m too thirsty, too often.
After the distillery we went back down to Inverness and through to Drumnadrochit (Bless you!), where there is the Loch Ness visitor center. I must admit I found Loch Ness itself somewhat disappointing, perhaps also because it was not swarming with monsters. I’m a sucker for lakes with monsters in it. So we went to the visitor center and the last shred of hope I had that Nessie existed was crushed like a ripe cherry under large leather boots. The exhibition there was a series of 6 chambers where the story of the lake was told - and it ended with a fine-tooth-comb fleet of boats armed with sonar gear, scanning every square meter of the lake from north-eastern side to the south-western shores. No monster. Proven with science and data. I now think that science owes me an apology because of all the childhood dreams it killed. I picked up a Nessie for Alexis!
We then made our way back to Inverness where Paul had booked us a room at the Travelodge. Upon arrival, the woman said his name rung a bell, which did not bode well, and she said that she remembered we were registered for a room yesterday, and we were a no show (obviously, because we were at the Travelodge in Livingston …). Oooops, Paul had booked for the wrong date. So we had to go again, but for some reason or other it was cheaper at the desk than it was on-line [which is generally exactly the other way around]. We asked Karalyne, the clerk, for a recommendation restaurant-wise and she offered Cafe1 on Castle Street. Right across from the castle we found it, a very nice place indeed. Not too fancy, not too cheap. Just right! We pigged out - fresh bread with evo/balsamic, and then an apple/brie/walnut salad for Paul, shredded beef springroll for me, followed by Sea Bass with spring vegetables and deep fried [as I write this, Paul and I have a complete blank what the thing is called again - Marina knows, because I don’t like it. Not couscous, but the other thing, often in triangles and fried, .. damn what is the word]. I had a bottle of Pino Griggio and it went well with the fish. For desert, Paul had Scottish cheese platter and I had a 40yo (!) Glenfarclas whiskey. I’ve only once drank a whiskey older than myself (With Lissi). This was very special indeed - I counted 18, maybe even 20s of sensation while tasting.
After dinner we went up to the castle for a quick few pictures and to enjoy the view of the river Ness and the surroundings, and I got the brilliant pim-idea to go touch the water. Paul reminded me that I had just cracked a full bottle of wine and a scotch, so perhaps my balance was not perfect? But I thought quite the opposite: I had just drank a full bottle of wine and a scotch, so my balance felt perfectly wonderful to me. We went over the bridge and down some stairs, stood on the bank of river Ness, and pictures were taken of each of us touching the water [which was nice’n’cold]. Then from above on the Key, a man started asking us questions. We stood and chatted with this elderly couple for a few minutes - she was born dutch (and still had it in her!) and he was born italian. They live in Australia, and come to visit Europe on occasion - quite enjoying the fact that in Brittain you can drive on the left side of the road :-)
We made our way to the car and then to the hotel. I watched some TV and snoozed, then just decided to fall asleep right there, for the third night in a row before midnight, it’s 22:30 and I’m going to bed! Tomorrow we go to Oban and Cairrrrrnrrrryyyyyan FGGGRSFFT!
Posted by Pim van Pelt at 8:00 PM
